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22 December, 2002

Foul Function Food

As publishing hack Rupert Green put it recently at the media iftar of a major government-owned company: "Given they're turning such a fair coin, it's a pretty poor spread."

It's regrettably true of so many "gala" dinners and media functions en generale. Always a buffet. Always poor quality. Always a bad reflection on the hotel whose premises the catering nightmare takes place.

So to taste the worst-ever Arabic food at Dubai's most-luxurious Arabic hotel the other night was disappointing but unsurprising. How is it possible for some gutter-cheap Lebanese greasy spoon in the arse-end of Deira to produce the world's most exquisite, light, crunchy, melt-in-the-mouth falafel, and the Royal Madge to turn out something grey, unedibly solid, tasteless?

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